Travel World guide

The literary and mountaineering worlds beware. Bernadette McDonald has found her muse with the new Mountaineers Books `Legend and Lore’ series. It seems as if I just shelved “I’ll Call you in Kathmandu” when, to my amazement, Bernadette McDonald releases yet another great biography “Brotherhood of the Rope.”
What an adventure. What a man. Charles Houston’s life is a life that has truly been lived, a life full of adventure, scholarship, compassion, and deep friendships. What I most admire about Mr. Houston is his dedication and unrelenting passion for all of his many pursuits. I felt goose bumps when I read of his early expeditions to Alaska, deep sortie’s and climbs in the Himalaya, his medical practice, and naturally his unforgettable K2 epic.
And, I must admit, a real sense of jealousy when reading of his treks across Afghanistan and the Middle East. I’m half tempted to jump on a plane this very minute to sit at Charles Houston’s side and listen to his endless supply of yarns. I can only imagine what he has done, seen, and felt in his long and well lived life. He is a living legend in my mind. And…Bernadette McDonald captures his extraordinary life so well in her writing; it is obvious that she truly understands Charles Houston’s importance in the mountaineering and medical world. Also, she has the unique ability to “open up” her subject matters, a rare gift that serves her well and allows for a story authentically told.
Bravo Bernadette McDonald!!! I await your next book with palpitating anticipation.

– Rob Torkildson

There has never been an American alpinist like Steve House. Fortunately for us, he is not only a skilled athlete, pioneering new routes in a stripped-down style at the cutting edge of modern alpinism; he is also an excellent writer, who bares all in his book Beyond the Mountain in thoughtful prose that is as smooth as his climbing. House takes us along on his journey from novice climber, through punk mountain shredder, to reach the maturity that led to his landmark ascent of Nanga Parbat with his partner Vince Anderson, a climb that few would even contemplate much less complete in such grand style. House not only describes the skills he developed as he took on increasingly difficult objectives, the beauty of the high mountains, and the athletic experience of climbing big mountains by elegant lines, he also lays out with brutal frankness the toll in pain, the death of friends, lost relationships, and the “artistic aesthetic [that] holds suffering in high regard.” Why do mountaineers climb? What makes them continue to climb when to do so inevitably leads to pain and loss? House has the insight and the talent as a writer to let us in and shed light on the answers to these questions. Seldom has any mountaineer confronted the territory beyond the mountains so honestly. I highly recommend this book, not only for those interested in the sport, but it is also a great story that the general reader will enjoy of courage, persistence and overcoming obstacles in a never ending quest for excellence.

Charles Houston is best known for his failed attempts to summit K2 in 1938 and again in 1953. The latter climb involved a dramatic rescue attempt of climber Art Gilkey and featured probably the most famous belay in history when Pete Schoening single-handedly kept the entire team from sliding off the mountain. Climbing was an important part of Houston’s life and McDonald’s biography of him does an excellent job covering his career. Beginning with his discovery of the French Alps and the confidence climbing gave him in his awkward teenage years and continuing to his Alaskan and Himalayan expeditions, Houston’s mountaineering life makes for great outdoor reading.

But what makes this biography so enthralling is the attention it devotes to the rest of Houston’s life, in particular his medical career. Houston was a pioneer in high altitude medicine working first for the Navy and then later with the High Altitude Physiology Study (HAPS) on Mt. Logan in Canada. In between, he had organized the Peace Corps in India, founded the doctors unit of the Peace Corps, researched artificial hearts, taught at universities, and was one of the founders of group medical practices in the United States. In all it was an outstanding career and one that deserves recognition far beyond what he has received for his climbing adventures.

But Houston’s life also saw many setbacks. Ever an idealist and a visionary, he could be difficult to work with. He certainly never mastered the political skills needed to be successful in Washington. Indeed, towards the end of his remarkable career, a college friend suggested he make a graduation speech. His perseverance in the face of a lifetime of failures, a friend suggested, would make a good message for contemporary graduates. Grudgingly, Houston agreed, and accepted the commencement address offer.

This volume includes a DVD with footage from some of Houston’s more dramatic climbs. It adds a nice touch to the book. I would recommend the book for climbers and armchair afficiandos of the sport. (I am in the latter category). But I think the book also summarizes a significant contribution to the history of American medicine and deserves a wide academic audience for those interested in that field.

This book made me feel like I was reading the detailed technical journal of an elite climber’s experience on the mountains. The dialogue is sparse- but I guess when you are climbing in the type of conditions that he puts himself in then you don’t have the time or energy to talk. Still, at times I wanted more dialogue between the author and his climbing partners. He writes about how intimate those relationships are but then fails to let the reader get a full psychological perspective. He is great at going into extreme details of climbing, but withdraws when it comes to emotional connection. However, the ending of the book, particularly the epilogue, enables the reader to relate to the author in a personal way. That being said, I think most people who buy the book are interested in learning more about what it takes to be one of the best climbers in the world and could care less about emotional connection.

Unlike a lot of memoirs written (or should I say ghost-written) by accomplished athletes, Steve House’s memoir isn’t an exercise in ego. Almost the opposite is true. This book seems to be, as much as anything else, an exploration of the egolessness and humility that the mountains taught him over nearly three decades of pioneering climbing. There is little that is “extreme!” in this book and there is none of the self-aggrandizing daredeviltry that has come to dominate the American action sports scene a’la the X-Games. Most surprising about House’s story is his candid admission that summiting some of the world’s great peaks is frequently a disappointing experience, underlining the refrigerator magnet platitude that is true however trite it might seem: the beauty lies in the journey.

Beyond the Mountain is a must read for anyone interested in alpinism and the motivations and sacrifices of those who practice it at its highest levels. Steve House obviously went through a lot of soul searching to write this account of his career to date leading up to his successful ascent of Nanga Parbat. The result comes off as an honest and heart felt tale which is a pleasure to read and left this reader with as many questions about personal motivation and accomplishment as it did provide answers. Highly recommended.

Just to pile on here… This book is a masterpiece. It does not tell the story of “a climb.” It does not tell the story of an approach to climbing. It tells the story of a man who climbs, one of the world’s best climbers, and that makes this book unique from my experience of reading mountaineering literature. It’s not just a biography. It is a confession, of the fears, hopes, shortcomings, and hard work of being Steve House. This is truly a unique and enjoyable book!

Just finished reading “Beyond the Mountain” by Steve House. His story of alpine climbing and the personal struggles and sacrifices associated with it are real, undiluted and eloquent. Not a handful of people can do what he does physically, much less use the profoundest of prose to lay bare the essence of what it is to be human. I have received many levels of inspiration by reading “Beyond the Mountain”. A heartfelt thanks to Steve for sharing his story with the rest of us.

Steve House is an excellent writer as well as an excellent climber. This book documents his many journeys up faces that have never been climbed before. This man has gone through heartache and pain to accomplish his goals. What is most surprising is that he is still alive. Also, he has sacrificed everything to be the best in the world. I liked this book a lot, but in some places it was beyond my imagination because of the level of difficulty that this man climbed too. He is one of the best and you will be scared for him on every page. The pictures in this book are also amazing. Some of the places he has been, no feet have ever touched besides himself. He is one of the elite. This book is for those who love climbing in the most extreme conditions.

At nearly 73 years of age, reading Steve House’s narrative resurrects old feelings of the ‘Freedom of the Hills’ I also had at his age. He has certainly risen far beyond what I considered my ‘mostly safe, yet exciting’ zone of personal mountaineering endeavor.

I was especially captivated by his account of extricating himself (solo)from a crevasse even while he endured rather extreme pain in his leg. This predicament still plagues me in my dreams.

To be sure, personal ego radiates from this guy like heat from an old space heater. — but fascinating it is to reflect on one’s own feelings that have grown somewhat dim, but never-the-less can be awakened by his vivid personal accounts.

Bill Becker — Green Valley Arizona – April, 2010 (a 25 year member of Mazamas, Portland Oregon)

Echoing other reviews, an amazing story, great writing, a classic anyone interested in mountaineering must own.

However, note that copies sold by Amazon no longer include the DVD – they should update the description. I went through 3 copies before giving up on Amazon for this title. So if you want the DVD, look elsewhere.

I got a chance to see Steve speak at Amazon when he dropped by for a slideshow and a talk about his book. He was humble enough in that discussion to just talk openly and straightforwardly about his climbs. I really had no idea at the time of his accomplishments, his high achievements in alpinism. I loved this book. It was a page turning gripping read, one of the best books I’ve read in a long time. Honest, haunting; an exposition on the triumphs and the costs of his pursuit. I especially liked his exploration of why he climbs and the tough answers that he admits he often doesn’t have. Highly recommended.

I’ve read hundreds of books about mountaineering. This is top 3.

It’s a unique glimpse into the mind and heart of one of the world’s premier alpinists. Reading this book gives you a feel for what it is like to climb at a high level, and why Steve chooses to do it.

When most of the accomplishments in mountaineering are so summit oriented, alloyed with sponsorship and even reality TV, how can you not be pleased to read the account of someone whose accompishments are purity of the opposite? The value of the climb, the route, and the unique experience of successful climbing partnership are lost to all except the climber. Steve House brings this all back to its proper value and vividly in his own words. This book is an act of Alpine art in itself. No Sherpa support, no supplemental oxygen, only minimal equipment, and nothing left on the mountain!

In Beyond the Mountain, Steve skillfully plots his career with a series of truly amazing stories. Mostly we are treated to gripping descriptions of climbing at the edge of human ability, in which his relentless drive risks his life for reasons he struggles to identify. But there are also understated love stories here — not of romance, but of the partners and others who have meant the most to him personally in his vertical pursuits. Steve seems to have put all of himself into this work, writing with a psychological honesty that is uncommon, reliving for us his victories and moments of clarity, but also his intense inner struggles with the desire to succeed and the fear of failure, the love of the sport and the crushing despair over fallen friends, the will to risk everything and the nagging question of why he does this given the intense personal costs. It is because of his brutal honesty, with others but mostly with himself, that what Steve gives us here is truly a gift, a glimpse into another man’s soul, so that ironically this biography of the uber-athlete is the story of Everyman. You will start to read it because it is the must-read of the year for everyone who has ever felt the thrill of going on belay, but you will blast through it and then dwell on it for days because Steve has not tried to oversimplify or falsely dramatize or glorify, but only to describe his lifelong quest to answer with his body the fundamental question of how one should find meaning and fulfillment.

An “interesting” book if you are a rock or ice climber. This book is technically oriented to those types of climbing. In other words, written for a very specific “audience”. John Oswald, Esq

In 1953 Charles Houston participated in what may be the most famous–and most admired–failed attempt on a mountain, when he and his fellow expedition members turned back on K2. Their decision to try to save the life of their climbing partner, Art Gilkey, by lowering him progressively down the mountain–despite the altitude, despite the storm and the danger of avalanches, despite their complete exhaustion and despite the ensuing accident that nearly killed them all–reflects a heroism whose scope may be nearly unimaginable today.
Bernadette McDonald’s book, Brotherhood of the Rope, takes the premise that Houston’s “entire life had prepared him for this moment [the rescue attempt], and the choice he made was the culmination of the values instilled in him by his family, his traditions, his friends and his experience.” As she retells the stories of his childhood, climbing and medical practice, she builds up, layer by layer, the rich experiences of what created the potential for Houston’s selfless courage. Despite her clear admiration for her subject, the end result is not a hagiography, but a humorous, lyrical and compassionate record of a climber, a time and a genuine human being.
In the process McDonald does a great service to the climbing world, to historians and to the larger public by preserving the memory of an era and its values that go against today’s talk-show-style focus on “personal journeys”–on summits and self-fulfillment at all costs–and by reminding us that the greatest accomplishments take place within the web of connections and responsibilities that form our human community.
Her book is also a great read. McDonald’s richly textured prose recreates a time before crowded base camps and normal routes when the highest peaks were still unclimbed and seemed just at the edge of possibility, when any expedition represented an exploration of lands that, to many Westerners, were still largely unknown. The book gives us more than just the external details of a life, it reveals the inner world of someone who has always looked at his surroundings–whether the Himalaya or Exeter or Aspen–with unceasing wonder.
The author’s extensive use of Charles Houston’s own spoken words makes the book serve as an oral as well as a written history. By the end, we feel as though we’ve taken part in a long, deeply affectionate and honest conversation between friends, who, like all good storytellers create a world that somehow seems richer–both brighter and darker–than our everyday life.

Katie Ives

This is a book with broad appeal. Whether the reader is an alpinist who guides for a living, a weekend climber who can’t put down a climbing magazine until it is read cover-to-cover, or an Everest enthusiast who never plans to climb a mountain, this tale is a winner. Steve manages to give us a feeling of being in the moment that other climbing literature only touches superficially. His honest reflection on the emotions and decisions he makes, while climbing out on the edge of what is possible, is a true gift to the reader. I look forward to the next book from a gifted writer. Perhaps after a successful climb on Makalu’s West Face?